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《全球中央》2015年11月號
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《全球中央》2015年11月號

龐克搖滾的繽紛世代

2015/10/30 16:44(10/30 16:53 更新)
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撰文及考題設計 英國文化協會教學團隊Joel Finnestad中譯 陳怡君

If you weren't around in the mid 1970's or even in the early and mid-eighties, you may not remem¬ber the music and fashion known as "punk" that swept nations around the world. Indeed, as we shall see later, punk is still alive and well today in many respects, but perhaps not quite as noticeably as when it was in its peak. While the music and art that characterised the punk scene was a key feature, it is perhaps the fashion that is most remembered: multi-coloured spiked hair, shocking mohawks, torn jeans held together with safety pins, metal studs, dog col¬lars and bulky Doc Marten boots, were all part of the look that defined punk.

如果你不是生逢1970年代中期、甚至80年代初期與中期,對於風靡全球的「龐克」音樂與流行文化可能不會有印象。的確,如同稍後將提到的,龐克文化今天雖仍存在於許多領域並相當活躍,但和全盛時期相比已不再如此受到注目。而雖然龐克的主要特色是音樂與藝術,但最為人所記憶的可能卻是龐克時尚:染得五顏六色的刺蝟頭、讓人大吃一驚的莫霍克頭*1、用安全別針裝飾的破洞牛仔褲、金屬鉚釘、狗項圈和厚重的馬汀靴,都屬於龐克時尚風格的一部分。

Although punk subculture was not always associated with London, especially in its early stages, London later came to epitomise both the music and the fashion. Much of punk's popularity in London is owing to Malcolm McLaren who started a clothing store with fashion designer Vivienne Westwood. The store was called SEX, and was hugely popular. It inspired what was to become one of the most famous bands associated with the punk movement - the Sex Pistols, which was managed by McLaren. The Pistols inspired countless other bands like the Clash, and The Jam.

儘管龐克次文化(特別是在早期階段)並不總和倫敦有關,然倫敦稍後卻成為龐克音樂與流行的代表地。麥坎.麥克羅倫(Malcolm McLaren)是引領倫敦龐克風潮的功臣,他和時尚設計師薇薇安.衛斯伍德(Vivienne Westwood)合夥開了一家名為「性」的服飾店,結果大受歡迎。「性」並啟發了龐克運動中最知名的樂團之一─「性手槍」樂團(The Sex Pistols),由麥坎.麥克羅倫擔任經紀人。而像是「衝擊合唱團」(The Clash)、「果醬樂隊」(The Jam)等無數樂團也都受到性手槍樂團所啟發。

*看單篇不過癮?訂閱全本電子雜誌《全球中央數位雜誌

Looking now at the roots of punk subculture, it might be best to start with the word itself. "Punk" means "a young inexperienced person - a beginner". This explains a lot, because the art or music that was associated with punk was seen as new, young and rebellious, challenging the norms of society. The precursors to the punk movement are closely tied to anarchism. An organisation in the 50's and 60' called "Situationist International", was a group of avantgarde artists who supported revolutionary action, and were a huge influence on the birth of punk. 要探究龐克次文化的根源,最好從「龐克」這個詞彙本身開始。龐克指的是年輕、青澀的人,也就是「初學者」,這提供了充分解釋。因為和龐克相關的藝術或音樂都被視為嶄新、年輕與叛逆的,大膽挑戰著社會規範。龐克運動的先驅和無政府主義有著密切聯繫,1950、1960年代稱作「情境主義國際」*2 的組織,便是由改革派的前衛藝術家所組成,對於催生龐克有很大貢獻。

Other inf luences include contributions from literature, art and music. Andy Warhol, an American "pop artist", is credited as a major figure in the punk scene. His famous (now priceless) controversial works of art challenged traditional notions of celebrity culture and advertising. Many American beat poets are also credited, especially Jack Kerouac, and William S. Burroughs who has been referred to as the "godfather of punk".

在文學、藝術與音樂等其他領域的貢獻,也被視為是龐克文化的其它影響。美國普普藝術家安迪. 沃荷(Andy Warhol)被視為龐克文化的重要人物, 他著名的(如今價值連城)爭議作品挑戰了傳統對於名人文化與廣告的概念,許多美國垮掉派詩人也被認為影響龐克文化甚鉅,特別是傑克.凱魯亞克(Jack Kerouac)及被視為龐克教父的威廉.柏洛茲(William S. Burroughs)。

Believe it or not, 19th century novelist Charles Dickens has been described as a founder of punk culture. Many of his most famous characters are poor, down and out, fiercely independent street youth, much like the supporters of the modern punk subculture.

你相信嗎?19世紀小說家狄更斯(Ch a r l e s Dickens)也被稱為龐克文化創始人,他許多知名的小說人物都是窮困潦倒、獨行俠般的街頭青年, 和現代龐克次文化的擁護者非常相像。

*看單篇不過癮?訂閱全本電子雜誌《全球中央數位雜誌

Punk music is still thriving in the UK, thanks to file sharing and the spread of music on the Internet. In terms of the subculture itself, however, many of the "original" punks probably agree that what is sold or portrayed as punk today, really isn't. There was a movement in the mid-90's, for example, claiming to be punk, and bands like Green Day emerged selling millions of albums. This sort of success isn't exactly what the anarchist, anti-establishment rebels had in mind.

受惠於網路音樂的分享與傳播,龐克文化在英國仍然蓬勃發展,然而就次文化本身而言,許多「原始的」龐克族可能都同意,今天販售或刻劃的龐克文化實際上並非真的龐克。舉例來說,1990年代中期出現了號稱是龐克的運動,造就「年輕歲月合唱團」(Green Day)等樂團崛起,銷售數百萬張專輯,然而這並非無政府主義者或反體制反叛者心裡所認定的成功。

The worst part, for many of the early punk legends, is that big corporations like major record labels draw on the punk rock "bad boy image" to make otherwise mainstream rock bands seem more edgy, and sell more albums. All of this aside, perhaps it really has little to do with the music, the fashion, or the money, and more to do with the individual. As legendary punk rocker Joey Ramone put it, "To me, punk is about being an individual and going against the grain and standing up and saying 'This is who I am'."

對許多龐克早期的傳奇人物來說,最糟糕的事情莫過於主流唱片公司等大型企業利用龐克搖滾的「壞男孩形象」,使原本主流的搖滾樂團看起來更前衛,以提升唱片的銷路。撇開這些不說,可能其實龐克與音樂、服飾或營收都沒什麼關係,真正重要的還是在於個人。如同龐克搖滾傳奇人物喬伊雷蒙(Joey Ramone)所言:「對我而言,龐克就是做自己、反其道而行,並挺直腰桿說『這就是我』的人。」(完)

更多精彩內容請見《全球中央》2015年11月號;訂閱《全球中央數位雜誌》;本文由《全球中央》雜誌授權刊載,未經同意禁止轉載。

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